After running the Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle, Cornwall for 17 years, Graham King, his partner Kerriann Godwin, and their Chihuahua Yorkie cross Hugo are spending their retirement traveling around Europe in their beloved Hymer 508 motorhome, 'Dickie'.
“It’s always good to have someone at each end.” The men
holding the doors for me on the upper and lower decks both visibly reddened and
chortled at the unintended double entendre. Scampering off with Mr Fluffy’s
tray of smoked duck salad, I wondered how I can often manage to sound a teeny
bit filthy without intending to.
The Fluffster and Hugo sat on the upper deck of the
Stornaway - Ullapool ferry trying not to get seasick; hence my servant status.
Luckily it was the calmest sailing Graham has had. The last time he did this
crossing it was the 80s and he spent the majority of the trip draped over a
toilet empty the contents of his stomach as the ferry was flung around by
One of our favorite Callanish stones
We’ve had amazing weather and we were lucky enough to
park overnight at the Standing Stones of Callanish (with permission I might
add). I’ve been wanting to get to Callanish for years so it was fantastic to be
able to spend more than a few hours there. There are three separate sites
within easy walking distance of the visitors’ centre, through rather muddy
fields, but the slush is worth it. Next day we headed up to the northernmost point
of Lewis to the Point of Ness where, every August, the local men head out to
one of the islands to hunt gannets which are a delicacy in the area. The beach there
is strikingly beautiful and it’s easy to see how it could get more than a little
hairy in bad weather.
And another favorite
There is an area called the South Lochs which is a bit of
a hidden gem according to the tourist literature. It is certainly extremely
lovely and surprisingly free of tourists. The very helpful woman in the
Ravenspoint Visitors’ Centre (An interesting museum and shop) suggested a
gorgeous spot to overnight in Dickie. It was by a small loch near the village
of Marbhig and to say it was idyllic would be an understatement. There were rarely
any cars passing and all we could hear was the gentle lapping of the water and
a few birds tweeting their happiness at living in such a fabulous place. There
are sea eagles around there but we didn’t manage to see any unfortunately.
Callanish II stone
Near Ullapool there is a bay at a village called Ardmair
which is also amazing. We parked here on our way to Lewis and on the night we returned
as it was so lovely. We will definitely be back to this area of Scotland. The people
are friendly and the scenery is to die for. I think next time we’ll head down
to Harris and pick up a tweed or two.
An ancient Black Village
And now we are back to reality sitting in a caravan park
near Inverness having just done all our washing, filled and emptied every
Dickie receptacle as needed, and hoovered the seeming kilos of Hugo’s fur off
the furniture. Wildcamping is great but it’s nice to get to a washing machine
More Callanish Stones
Tomorrow we head to Findhorn and the east. Looking
forward to what happens next.