It’s All in the Stones - But Not the Mud

Graham was a little worried about the amount of mud at the Aire we stopped at in the village of Sers earlier today and he turned out to be correct. We wanted to see the site of Roc de Sers which has a replica of some ancient rock carvings found in the area so thought we’d stop in the village. Bad idea!

Small but perfectly formed

Everything was closed as usual and there was nowhere to eat. The Aire had hardstanding for the parking but the exit was very muddy and very uphill. We decided to leave after getting some water and managed to get bogged on the way out. There is something quite stressful about wheels spinning, mud flying and not being able to move. Thankfully a friendly Frenchman came to our rescue, guiding us through the various reversals, turns, and accelerations to get out. Thank you, that man.

Perfectly carved

Two stags

We drove on to Roc and were rewarded with some fabulous replicas of the carved stones. There are depictions of bison, stags, horses and even humans. It was worth going despite the stress at the Aire.

Displayed quite well

A bit soggy

We’re now nearby at a much less muddy spot in Dirac. It seems an affluent town with a posh farm shop next to us and a lovely church with animal carvings above the door. Not quite as old as the prehistoric ones but around 11th century I think. It’s been a day of carved animals.

Church entrance carvings

Big Rocks Come in ‘Handy’

Troglodyte Lunch

It was a real ‘wow’ moment as we turned the corner to the market square of St Emilion and saw the magnificent troglodyte church. It was carved into the rock in the 11th Century and has been added to over the centuries. I read that it is the largest rock-carved church in Europe and has always attracted pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela (of course). Unfortunately, it’s not open today so we can’t explore the interior but the outside is impressive enough.

Lower part carved from rock

Market Square - used to be a graveyard

We didn’t think the 11th Century was far enough back in history for us to go today so we searched for and found a 4,500 year old megalith, the Menhir de Pierrefitte, which is about 4 km outside St Emilion. This is apparently the largest menhir in south west France and is unusually shaped like a hand - if you look at it from the right angle. 

Hugo posing well for a change

Hand in the hand

Pines to Pissos

A 1940’s vibe

The town of Hagetmau looked like it might have been a good next stop. There’s a crypt, an ancient Mary Magdalene church, and a couple of good restaurants. Perfect. However, on arrival we found the crypt was closed, the church was closed - and the restaurants were closed. Sigh. It was a nice place walk around but we ended up spending the afternoon chilling out in the van watching tele as Graham had wanted a short drive and didn’t feel like moving on. We were greeted by primroses and violets on our morning walk so the visit was worthwhile after all.

Good morning

We felt like we needed some yummy food after our disappointing culinary experience and noted that the unfortunately named Pissos (a place we’d stopped at on the way down which has an excellent restaurant) was on our way so we put that in the Tom Tom and headed off. The whole way all we saw along the roadside were pine forests, pine forests, and more pine forests. They like a bit of wood around here.

As we drove along I noticed a statue of a person on stilts and remembered there were shepherds in Les Landes area who used to work the fields by walking on stilts. I found a website with some amazing photos of these shepherds doing what they do best. Click the link Here if you’d like to get more information on this.

Just the occasional pine tree

Pissos didn’t disappoint with the restaurant and the weather was really warm so we took the opportunity to explore a bit more than last time. The forest behind us was dotted with small holiday cabins, probably for Scouts. Opposite was a very interesting cemetery with some unusual headstones. The white gravestones belonged to those killed in both the First and Second World Wars and were obviously very well kept.

Angelic child’s head

War graves in white

Metal headstone

We’ve finally moved on from the pine forests and are parked by the Garonne Canal in Fontet. It’s unseasonably warm and I actually got down to my singlet on our 6 km walk along the tow path - no photos of that you’ll be happy to hear. I fear the weather maybe turning tonight so we’re braced for rain tomorrow.

A change of scenery

A beam of light

Still in the jumper 

Pootling in the Pyrenees

 We took the road across the Pyrenees at a pacey 35km per hour. The weather was clear and bright but the way was dotted with a constant stream of cyclists who were making the most of the gorgeous weather. I was quite happy to go at this snail pace as I didn’t want us to be responsible for a cyclist’s terrible end on such a gorgeous day. We’ve been across these mountains so many times but I think this is the first time we’ve driven it with bright blue skies and not a hint of snow in the air.

St Jean Pied de Port was our stop and we enjoyed a stroll around the ancient streets where many start their journey along the Chemin de Santiago de Compostela. It was 20 years ago almost to the day that Graham set out on his walk to Santiago. The sun stayed out but we woke to fog and cloud this morning - a very different view across the river.

From one day…

…to the next

The ancient road in the town centre is full of 17th and 18th century houses marked with the names of those who lived there and the date the house was built. It makes an interesting walk up the winding cobbled streets.

Worth a walk

Up this medieval street

House of 1722

 When the fog cleared (and after we’d done our washing - boooring) we drove a short 40 km to Sauvetterre de Béarne, another medieval village but this time with a more French, rather than Basque, vibe. We found a fabulous restaurant so Graham tucked into a lamb shank while I consumed a confit of duck and Hugo had several mouths full of both. We came through here last year but everything was closed as the town centre roads and buildings were undergoing a massive refurbishment. I must say it looks a lot better this time.

12th century church

Cute (and yummy) restaurant

View to the Bridge of Legend

Carrying On from Carrion

 It sounds like we left Portugal just in time as I’ve read that the Portuguese farmers have blockaded some of the border crossings into Spain as part of the growing EU wide protests. We actually saw some tractors congregating on the side of the motorway this morning as they prepare to mobilise for their own protest.

Pyrenees in the clouds

 We managed to drive through a vast swathe of vineyards to reach Elciego in the Rioja region unscathed. It’s a lovely medieval village that boasts many wineries, one of which has a bodega designed by none other than the famous architect Frank Gehry.

It’s certainly a contrast

The more usual architecture

One of the joys of being in this region is the choice of good wines and we found Bodega Muriel where we could buy a dozen Rioja Crianzas for 25 Euros. Hoorah!! We tried one last night and it was so good we bought another box this morning. We’re now on the outskirts of Pamplona in Sarriguren surrounded by high rise flats and the sound of children playing basketball in the background. We will head into France tomorrow, taking advantage of the lack of snow on the Pyrenees.

Gotta love a cheap dozen

It’s not only wine they do well here; they also do good doors.

Masks, Meseta, and Misericords

 It was a little frosty yesterday morning so we took the opportunity to lie in - to around 815am (yes, the fluffy one thinks that this is lying in).

Our morning sky

The Iberian Museum of the Mask and the Costume within the walls of the castelo opened at 9 so we strolled up the steep path to discover that dogs aren’t allowed in - sigh. I went in first and paid the 2 euro 26 cents (weird pricing) for both of us. It’s a fabulous collection of costumes worn in winter festivals in several villages around the region of Tras-Os-Montes and into Spain. According to the information sheet they are known in English as the Feasts of the Boys (Festas dos Rapazes).They are ancient pagan celebrations that have been integrated into the Christian religious calendar. Unfortunately the lighting and the glass cases did not make for great photos and it’s a shame there were no videos of the events but the collection itself is very interesting. Some are very similar to traditional British folk costumes, particularly the paper tatters and te straw man. They have a folk dance tradition called Pauliteiras which is very similar to morris Dancing. You can find videos on YouTube if you want to check it out.

Familiar face

Paper tatters

Straw chap

Cute smile

Having had our fill of demons and skeletons we popped into the supermarket to stock up on fabulous Douro and Alentejo wines then bid farewell to Portugal. The route took us across the dry, flat meseta to our next stop Léon in Spain where we parked by the river and walked into the old town to peruse the grand cathedral and find a restaurant. It’s one of the main waypoints on the Compostela and we’d been before several years ago. It’s an impressive cathedral but we both found it strangely devoid of atmosphere - maybe it’s just us. There’s an impressive altar of course and some amazing carvings and stained glass windows. The old town was buzzing with bars and cafes but, as we were eating early (around 730 and most kitchens didn’t open till 830), the only place we found to eat was a pizza joint. Very good it was too.

Understated altar

Cute green man

Mermaid misericord

 We’re now still on the Compostela in Carrion De Los Condes. Just about every restaurant is closed but we found one with a menu del dia for 14 euros - three courses with wine. Excellent.

Our overnight stop

Waymarkers on the footpaths

Child Bride and Perky Duke

Around 800 years ago a Spanish princess, Isabella of Aragon, married a much older King Dinis of Spain just near where we were parked at Trancoso in the mountains of Portugal. She was later canonised for putting up with her husband’s affairs, looking after the children he had with his many mistresses, and turning bread into flowers. I’m sure there was more to it than that but you get the gist. There is a lovely pair of statues of them both outside the walls of the fortified city - apparently the woman is smaller than the man as she was only a child when they married. The town had a very chilled vibe, mainly because it was Sunday and everything was shut but we managed to catch another castelo (yes, with washing hanging on the walls) and a small Jewish centre. 

More washing on the castle walls

Rather like chess pieces, we thought

Our night in the car park was uneventful but for Graham waking up to a strange light show outside. Was it someone checking out the van in an attempt to break in, or was it the spirit of Isabella paying us a visit? It turned out to be the full moon making an appearance through a slit in our skylight, much to the fluffy one’s relief. (In case you’re wondering, I have no idea why this paragraph is sitting in this position on the page)

The drive today took us through the high Douro River regions with vast stretches of vineyards, a few goats, and yet more olive groves along the route. At one point we were driving through clouds and could barely see the road ahead but Graham’s masterful driving got us through unscathed and we arrived in Bragança just in time for a yummy lunch at a restaurant we’d visited many years ago just inside the castle walls.

Unfortunate angle of Duke Fernando

Our last Portuguese castelo

Tasca Do Zé Tuga is a traditional (but slightly overpriced due to its location) Portuguese restaurant with an old fashioned interior, very nice jazz music, and the best chocolate ice cream we’ve ever tasted. Our waiter was very friendly even after Hugo tried to bite him for giving him a pat on the head. We later strolled around town and learned that all the museums were closed (of course) but we hope to see the Mask Museum in the morning before we head to Spain.

Perfection 

Loving this cute interior