Arrival in Sweden

We are appalled at the health and fitness standards of the Swedish youth of Gotenburg. We are parked up near a leisure park/gym complex and everywhere we look there are svelte Swedes running, jogging, doing yoga poses and generally sweating profusely whilst at the same time looking incredibly attractive and blonde. It’s stressing us out just watching. On the flip side, just about every woman between the ages of 14 and 26 seems to smoke in little huddles outside buildings and in bars. It’s just like the eighties!!

Thought it would be a bit rude to get closeups

We headed off to Sweden this morning so were up early to get showered so Graham could prepare Dickie while Kerriann did her makeup. Dickie’s Dunny was quietly emptied, the fresh water tank filled, the grey water emptied, the electricity un-hooked, and all before 7am. At 7 15 Kerriann’s face was insitu so we readied for the off. Went to start Dickie for a discreet departure and embarrassingly set off the alarm waking all the slumbering campers - oops!  I hope our pleasant German neighbours with the cutest dog in the world (a Bolunka called Fila) will forgive us in time.

We were going to top up with cheap Danish Diesel but Kerriann was worried the half mile drive to the Ferry terminal might take over half an hour so we drove straight there in 2 minutes. The crossing was lovely and smooth but a little misty. We caught sight of the Gotenburg archipelago through the windows. It looked very spooky through the haze.

on the ferry to Gotenburg

glamorously draped over the ferry 

The roads around Gotenburg were manic compared to the lovely quiet Danish roads, and the first camping place we had chosen was a bit unattractive despite its marina-side location so we continued for another 45 minutes and have ended up on a lovely (but pricey) location in a country park on the outskirts of town. We don’t mind paying the £24 per night as we have had so many free nights during the trip. Out of interest our average nightly charge is working out at £ 7.36 and we expect this to drop as in both Sweden and Norway wild camping (overnighting in lay-bys and public car parks) is legal.

We caught the rather beautiful old, electric tram into town this afternoon and had a wander around the shops, lanes and harbour. The weather cleared up and so we stopped for a beer and an apple juice (guess who had which drink) in an outside bar and were not shocked at the £ 9.30 bill – we are expecting to pay a lot for drinks and meals. Once the mist disappeared and the sun broke through the day was a scorcher and we are just setting a table up for wine next to Dickie. Its 23 deg. C at nearly 7pm, the birds are singing and we are not joining in with the joggers.

A group of gorgeous looking young people have just appeared over the hill jogging backwards with weights in their hands. Too disturbing! We would find it even more disturbing had it not been for our recent wine consumption. We've even seen people our age running in shiny track suits. They even seem to be following maps.' More wine please Mr Fluffy.'

Fredrikshavn

After a morning of exceptional filming at Skagen we decided to head to Fredrikshavn to organise our trip to Goteborg in Sweden. 

After parking up in the stellplatz near the harbour we headed off to the Stena Lines office to book our tickets. Easier said than done - we managed to cycle straight into the freight loading/unloading area. Huge tugs with containers whizzed around whilst we pottered around on our bikes. I was panic stricken by the speed, size, and  dangerous driving of the trucks but Kerriann carried on calmly.

Eventually we resorted to asking a bemused freight loading man where we should go - 'you should not be here' he helpfully told us (no sh*t sherlock) - eventually we found our way to the ticket office by exiting the loading bays and heading out to the poorly signed area where we started. How we were not arrested I don't know! We have successfully purchased our tickets for 8am tomorrow morning - watch out Sweden here we come!

After our exciting combat with freight trucks we had a cycle/stroll around the town and a meal in a nice hippy cafe - sitting out in the sun. We took the long way home and cycled to a viewing point a few miles out of town. The less fit of us are suffering a little after the ride (I wont mention Kerriann's name here) oops.

me after the uphill ride

Harumph...it was extremely hot and uphill. 

Skagen

Fjaltring Strand was idyllic but we realised we had to leave and head north as our chemical toilet was full and there was nowhere to empty it. It was a longish drive yesterday, about 4 hours, and it was 25 degrees by 10 am so a beautiful day for a drive. The roads are wonderful over here, fairly quiet with no pot holes, hedges or walls to scrape into. These are the roads Dickie is designed for. 

someone hasn't thought this through - Ringkobing

Graham’s back is a little sore through sunburn but his front is still suitably pasty in true Pommy fashion. I, om the other hand, have a lovely burn on the upper chest which should add to that crepe look that so many of us Aussie women sport. 

We originally thought that we might stay around Lokken but when Mr Fluffy realised there were more than three people on the beach he declared it too touristy and decided to move on. The beach there was amazing – miles of white sand and there were many cars and vans actually parked up on the sand. We drove Dickie onto the beach but our nerves got the better of us. It was the sound of sand crunching under the 3.5 tons of Hymer that suggested it was not the best place to park for us and we decided to carry on North.

We are at now at Grenen on the Northern tip of Denmark. We cycled the 3 km into Skagen last night to grab a bit of wee fee and a beer. There are unusual yellow painted houses and it’s a large fishing port that is now quite a popular tourist destination. 

one foot on each sea

This morning we are looking forward to a ride in a tractor-pulled trailer to the sands on Grenen where the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas meet. We are so far north that it no longer gets dark and it’s messing up our sleeping habits. The rather persistent and loud cuckoo which has been calling since about 4am is not helping either. Off to Frederikshavn later to prepare for the next of our trip – Sweden.

 

looking masculine in the sea

Fjaltring Strand

Day Two at this gorgeous beach and Mr Fluffy is on his third futile attempt at catching something vaguely resembling a fish. He is having a lovely time trying but not much success. We spent a couple of hours skimming stones in the sea during a 2 hour walk along this amazing beach, then I came back to Dickie to write an astrology piece for a knitwear company. I put off the wine intake until The Fluffster's return so as not to appear a wino but I must say the need to write something to order always gets my stress buttons twitching. Thrillingly, 3 hours later, I have managed to finish Aries - only 11 to go. I managed to intersperse it with several Facebook messages with my friend in New York. How about that, I'm on  a beach on the coast of Denmark & she's in the bath in her NY apartment. I love wee fee. Fabulous for procrastination which, I might add, is my forte.

Slightly scary staircase

WE had a fabulous sunset last night. Lots of people came to the beach, parked up for the sunset then whizzed off. They missed the pink bits, as it were. 

sunset minus pink bits

Off to Skagen tomorrow where the two seas meet.

Ringkobing

This is our view this morning. I think it's my favourite so far.

drying the washing

loving the lake

The Nightwatchman

The sun was shining at 8pm so we decided to go out to see the night watchman and take his walk around the town. How weird that the first stop was the witch Marin Splid's house. She had upset a local business man by uttering a curse and when he became ill two years later (!) he blamed her, and the King Christian 4th heard of it and had her tortured for 3 months then burnt as a witch. She has a plaque on her house which we managed to photograph.

Marin Splid's plaque

The night watchman himself was a very friendly and knowledgeable chap who sang the original  nightwatchman's song from the 1600s as he led us around town. It was an interesting tour and we highly recommend it...and it's free. The job was originally to patrol the town to guard against fires, flood and other unpleasantness. He carries a mace known as the morning star! We have recorded a bit for your listening pleasure. Listen here.

He starts his tour

Past the lovely doors

Sporting the Morning Star

A Day in Ribe

"We must be careful how we ask for directions to the Kunstmuseum". Mr Fluffy was a little worried his lack-of-Danish accent may get him in to trouble with any English speakers within earshot. Too true I thought but we were also heading off to the Viking museum and I'm sure the Vikings would have coped with a little fruity language. 

getting wee fee

It rained today. It was the type of rain that made mice depressed. Their little coats all sodden and their ears weighed down with heavy droplets. My shower-proof coat was wet through and, despite Mr Fluffy's pleas that I wear the rainproof trousers, I just couldn't bear the thought of another fashion faux pas day, so my jeans were also drenched. Graham on the other hand was a vision of dryness in his head to toe plastic rainproof outfit.    

Me by the flood measurement post

The Kunstmuseum proved impressive with some standout artworks. I particularly liked a stark scene of a small child knitting by a window and Mr Fluffy's favourite was a large painting of three women watching out to sea as their menfolk's boats got into trouble in heavy seas. It was very striking.

Onward to the Viking museum, the one in town, not the one on the outskirts. They had a good collection of artefacts which had been excavated from the town centre, and a temporary exhibition of Christian Vikings. There was a small panel about witches which talked about a local woman Marin Spiild the tailor's wife who was burnt at the stake in the 1600s. The only artefact they had from her was the door to her house...rather strange.  I wonder what she would think of that now if she knew.

on top of the cathedral

pointing to top of cathedral

As it's a public holiday here (Ascension Thursday) most places were closed. The Dutch people we met earlier were most shocked that the UK, as a 'Christian country' did not have this day as a holiday. We managed to get a meal of fish and fat - yes the herring came with a box of fat to put on the bread - and Graham loved it. I contented my self with a bowl of onion soup. 

Graham loving his herring

A box of fat to have on one's bread

 Wandering the streets here is a treat. The medieval buildings are stunning and the decorative doors are very unusual. Despite a lack of waffles in Belgium and Holland we have succumbed to the Danish pastry and have scoffed several in Dickie this afternoon with the obligatory cup of tiddle (aka tea). Popping in to see the night watchman this evening then off north tomorrow.  

a selection of doors