Woke early this morning as there is no perceptible
difference between day and night – we are not north of the Arctic Circle yet so
the sun does still just set but the sky is always light. It also didn't help
that I misread my watch and was up and about before 6am. Turned the radio on
and picked up the local Sami station that was playing what I assume was
traditional Sami folk songs – I loved them and had fun wondering what the
lyrics might be: “As I was a wandering one mid-summer’s morn, I heard the call
of a distant moose” or “I've been a wild reindeer herder for many a year and I
spent all my Krona on moose sausage and beer”….
As the day wore on we found ourselves craving reindeer
sausage. Luckily, we just happened to have one in the fridge so we snacked heartily
on it for lunch. Norwegian bread is decidedly uninteresting but we've managed
to find Danish bread in the Remy 1000 supermarket. It’s very heavy but really
tasty and goes very well with all our yummy purchases.
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| the kirk at Dønna |
This drive up the E6 to the Arctic Circle is stunning in a
very different way to down south. The road snakes alongside a river full of
salmon and fishermen, and to the sides there are fields and pine forests and in
the distance there are snow-capped mountains.
We are currently parked up at the ferry port on our way to
Dønna and the giant phallus. This is moose and reindeer country so we’re hoping
we see some in the wild.
………………….
The ferry trip to Dønna was straightforward enough – about
25 minutes and we had arrived at Bjørn ferry harbour. Off we went and
immediately saw a moose by the road along with some strange looking birds –
like jackdaws or crows with rather fabulous pale coffee coloured backs. Heading
north on the island we saw the ‘Fallus’ sign about 20 minutes in to the drive
and excitedly pulled in to the parking area.
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| a marvellous marble phallus |
The marble statue stands on the top of a small hill and is
around 89cm tall. It’s very white and prominent and is surrounded by farms. What
a lovely neighbour to have. Just along the track is an Iron Age burial chamber,
one of the largest in Europe at 35 metres in diameter and 5 metres high. It was
covered in moss and lichen and as we walked around the area it felt like the
ground was trying to suck us in. It was extremely spongy and there were a few
holes here and there so we had to watch our step. It was guarded by some crows
who had been feasting on some other bird’s eggs. There was a small skull
sitting on top but we couldn’t work out what it was – maybe a badger.
There is a distinct lack of Dickie parking areas on this
island so we are now in the carpark adjacent to 12th century Church
and graveyard listening to heavy metal music on the only radio station we can
get. Apparently there is the largest mausoleum in Norway inside the church so
we are hoping to get a look in tomorrow. Graham is cooking his potato garlic
combo as we speak so I am feeling guilty that he has driven all day and is now
making dinner. But he looks happy enough.
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| interior shot of church |
Obviously there is no wee fee here but our next destination
is Mo I Rana, just short of the Arctic Circle so we shall post from there.
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