Saturday, 20 January 2024

From Coast to Country Then Back Again

 We knew we had to avoid the bridges of Lisbon on our way south due to my extreme bridge phobia (gephyrobobia - don't ask me how to pronounce it) so we headed inland to Alcácer do Sal. On the way we had a night at a fabulous spot called Foz de Arelho where the Atlantic Ocean connects to the largest salt water lagoon in Europe. Our lagoon side location was perfect for watching the fishing boats and kite surfers although the rain came in again overnight and turned the place into a mud puddle in the morning.


Where lagoon meets ocean

Our view as the fog came in in the morning

Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stay there, especially Mr Fluffy who happily consumed yet another octopus dish at Taverna Lagoa. We would definitely return in better weather to make the most of the lagoon - and the restaurant. 

Back to Alcácer Do Sal - what a stunning town.


Rice fields at sunset

Our view over the river

Morning fog over the rice fields

White houses, roman ruins, rice fields, views, friendly people - and a bridge with lights that change colour at night. What more could one ask for. We had driven to one of the barragems (or dams) nearby but it was muddy and boring so we went back to town. A gorgeous walk up to the Crypt Arqueologica ensured we had fabulous views over the town and fields and we encountered a young woman on a swing singing softly to herself which added to the atmosphere.


We parked by this bridge

Night view

Unfortunately, later that evening we ate out at a cafe and thought it would be a good idea to try a local dish called Migas which is bread soaked in water, mixed with coriander and other stuff, then fried. I can’t say I’m a fan although Graham managed to swallow his half. The waiter kindly took it off the bill - I get the feeling my negative reaction wasn’t an uncommon one. The Alentejo wine, however, was very delicious and very acceptably priced at 13 euros.



We’re back on the coast now at a very groovy surfing site beach called Sines São Torpes. There are no other British people around and we’ve only seen around three or four others in total on our trip so far. Most here are young surfers from Poland, The Netherlands, Belgium and Portugal. One small transit sized van is complete with five, yes five, long-haired dachshunds and we’ve seen two other vans with cats draping themselves leisurely over the dashboards. The parking area sits between a gigantic power station and the beach - very weird - but, as parking on beaches is banned in this area, this is our best ‘legal’ bet.


You’ve seen a beach so here’s our power station

Tomorrow we head back to inland Portugal to catch up with a friend in Silves.

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